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destination:
Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series 09/10
Report - Part 1
when: March '10
It's half way through the CN: WBS 09/10 so I thought I’d
do a report on current proceedings. Second half to come
when it finishes in March.
Round 1 :
I got to the
competition pretty late as that morning I’d just
finished my last 12 hour night shift for that week. I
was excited to enter and give it a blast but still
pretty tired from work.
The problems were very good but very hard with some
extremely tricky ones, including an almost impossible
£50 problem, which was a dyno to two tricky slopers on
the 45-degree board, which came out to be around F7c!
There was also a very nice route at F6c+ where you had
to bridge up the inside of CN’s Cave area then a small
‘pop’ to a positive edge. At the end of round one I got
255 points, which put me 21st that day.
Round 2:
More excuses for this
competition this time round!
This time I was very psyched as I’d finished work and
could relax into the competition…However I had to rush
as my end of work/Christmas Party was at 18.30 and the
CN comp started at 13:00 with an hours travel time in
between. So the race was on to attempt all 35 problems
in about 3 hours and get back in time for my party…
Luckily, after talking to Chris (Graham) and Andy (Earl)
they had set them a little easier than the previous
round. Again there were some very tricky problems but
some beautifully set ones as well, the most enjoyable
being a Feet-Only problem in the kids ‘slab’ area which
started with a high step and a few very balancey moves
to the finish. Another nice problem was a very high and
tricky mantle on the hugest hold in the world, to a
small crimp, match then rock-over to the finish.
That time I did slightly better, 265 points, which put
me 18th at that comp.
And finally, Round 3:
My
favourite round from the Series so far and this time I’d
bought some new shoes (Red Chilli Matadors) and do some
training, not much but a little bit, so I was interested
to see how well I’d perform.
The routes were supposed to be harder and at first
glance they certainly looked it…little crimpy routes,
massive dynos and very technical problems, but I had new
shoes and had done some training so I was very excited
to check them out.
On the whole the routes weren’t as hard as I’d
originally thought as I dispatched most of them fairly
quickly, racking up 230 points within 3 hours of getting
there. Now it was down to the much harder routes, the
hardest being a double dyno to a very bulbous volume,
which I was just too short for, and also a very hard
technical route on slopers on the 45-degree wall that
came in at a hefty 7C!
The most enjoyable route of the night however was a nice
roof route that got my core muscles working overtime but
managed to flash first time so all smiles there J
On that round I got 278 points, which got me joint 13th.
That finishes off my report of the series so far…the
next report will be after I’ve finished the series in
March.
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